San Xavier del Bac Mission

Mission San Xavier del Bac is a Catholic church founded by a Jesuit priest, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, a European spreading the word of God in a new land in 1692. While traveling to what is now known as California, Kino found a Pima Indian village near a stream bed ("Bac" means "where a stream emerges") in the Sonoran Desert. He stopped and preached to the people who were receptive to his teachings. Father Kino did not stay in this location, but visited it often during his travels.

From 1692 through 1782 various priests took charge of the church and either visited regularly or were commissioned there. The services took place in a different church than the one that exists today. During this time the old church was vulnerable to Apache attacks but was left untouched. Charles III of Spain banned all Jesuits from Spanish lands because of distrust of the secular talents of the Jesuits, so from this time (late 1760's) on San Xavier would be led by Franciscans.

Today's church was built in 1783. Not much is written about the Mission from the time it was built until 1828. At this time the Mexican government demanded loyalty from all Spanish priests, and many, including the priest at San Xavier, refused. Therefore, the priest serving at San Xavier was sent home to Spain, and San Xavier was left vacant.

From 1828-1858 the church began to decay and local Indians, concerned about the church, took church furnishings into their homes as a way of preserving what they could. In 1849 the California gold rush began, and then a large number of people came to the church on their travels to California. Most visitors wrote their names on the walls inside.

In 1858 a diary entry by a visitor from Ohio explained that the door to San Xavier was always open and that the church had been taken over by birds and that the Indians respected it too much to vandalize it.

The decaying church was helped in 1859 when the Gadsden Purchase added Arizona to the Santa Fe Diocese. The Bishop for the Santa Fe Diocese ordered a scout to Arizona, where they discovered San Xavier. Repairs were made with Diocese money and a priest was assigned to serve at San Xavier.

A school was begun several times at San Xavier. The church received funding through the government for school, but the first attempt in 1864 failed, as local Indians did not send their children. In 1895 a school was opened again, and a grant of $1,000 was given to repair the building. Classrooms were added on at the start of the century. In 1947 a new school was built next to the church for the Tohono Oodam children.

Many mysteries remain about the construction of the current church. It is known that the church is built about one and a half miles south of the first church location. Among the few facts known is that the current structure was built in 1783 with a 7,000 peso loan. However, the questions far outnumber the known answers.

For instance, the east tower was never completed. Several theories exist about why it was left unfinished. It is not known if the church's 7,000 peso loan was not enough, or if the priests decided not to finish it so that no taxes would have to be paid. Another theory says that a worker was killed during construction and no one else could be convinced to go up.

It is interesting that such a beautiful structure has no record of the architect, builders or artists responsible for creating it. It has been determined that no less than three artists painted the artwork inside the church. Almost every available space inside has a painting or sculpture. The paintings have the look of folk and baroque art of religious figures. The colors, though faded are still brilliant and quite striking. The amount of artwork on the walls and ceiling is overwhelming, but breathtaking.

The debate about who the architect or builder was is fueled by the inscription "Pedro Boj. Ano die 1797 (a day in 1797)" on one of the wooden doors at the entrance. Many speculate that Pedro Bojorquez is the name of the builder, but this is discounted because he could also be a manufacturer of doors or a carpenter who placed his name there.

San Xavier Mission is just seven miles south of Tucson, and is easy to locate. To get there, take Interstate 10 to Interstate 19 South and exit at the sign directing you to Mission San Xavier del Bac. You can see the bright white Mission from the highway. Admission is free.